rose petals bath bomb 500

7 Rose Petals Bath Bomb Recipes That’ll Renew and Rejuvenate

That 80s Referenced Bath Bomb Recipe

Confession time! Every time I hear Jon Bon Jovi declare his yearning to “lay you down on a bed of roses,” I start imagining myself in that scenario.  I’m talking a la Mena Suvari lying naked in a pool of rose petals from that iconic scene in American Beauty… only with one of my kids yelling “Mommy!” in the background. But what does this have to do with how to make bath bombs? Does it even have anything to do with a bath bomb recipe?

Well, only the Kardashians can pull the rose petal stunt because buying the roses solely for this purpose would cost an arm and a leg.

So here’s a cheaper alternative… Rose Bath Bombs!  DIY bath bomb recipes are natural with lush aromatics from your favorite fragrance oil. Not to mention without the expense of tub discoloration in the process. This is a step by step on how to make bath bombs that will make every woman feel like a million bucks.


Why not roses?   Roses are the universal symbol of love when it comes to flowers.  It conveys beauty, passion and romance.  But other than its cheesy symbolism, roses have been used for centuries for its therapeutic benefits especially when it comes to skin care. 

Rose oils have been known to help with depression and decrease anxiety.  Even if you just fill a tub with water and sprinkle rose petals in it, you’d already feel your spirits being lifted up high to the Almighty.  I know it’s not going to fix depression but we can all agree that bathing in a tub filled with rose petals makes us feel like goddesses.  (Click the link for dried flowers à )

And since this article will have a bath bomb recipe for you to use, I’ll tell you the many things roses can do for your skin.  It evens out your skin tone, moisturizes it, brightens, firms, you name it!  Some even say it could be the secret to anti-aging.  The coveted “fountain of youth”.


It is quite a favorite to use rose oils and rosehip oils for a DIY bath bomb or handmade soap recipe.  Even though they come from the same rose family and both have anti-aging benefits for the skin, there are actually a lot of differences between the two.

Rose oil is extracted from the petals of the famous rose while rosehip oil is from the seeds of a wild rose bush mostly found in Chile.  They also differ in color, the rose oil has a light yellow or greenish hue while the rosehip oil has an orangey shade. 

Rose oil smells like fresh roses which I absolutely love.  I think it has to be one of the best scents in the world, the kind that really makes you take a deep breath where you can almost picture the fumes entering your nose and filling up the rest of your body with such sweet goodness!  Oh yea and the rosehip oil smells like earth.  Herbaceous and earthy.  Still good though.

While rose oils have a shelf life of 4-6 years, the rosehip oil only has 6 months.  Store it in the refrigerator to prolong its life expectancy.

I Wish I Read This Before Making Bath Bombs



And now the moment you’ve been waiting for… the part where I tell you how to make bath bombs.  We’ll start off with a simple rose bath bomb recipe decorated with dried rose buds.  

You’re probably thinking, “Do I really have to add rose buds?”  I’m sure you could make a perfectly fine rose bath bomb without the rose buds but adding them really helps especially if you plan on giving them as a gift. 

Even a tiny little rose bud goes a long way, turning a plain looking bath bomb to something artsy.  Roses just have that magical ability to make anything look elegant.




  1. In a large mixing bowl, combine baking soda and Love in the Afternoon Mica. Mix well using a whisk or your hands (wear gloves).  Make sure they’re blended well until you can see the pink color distributed evenly.
  2. Add the Rose fragrance oil and stir until it’s fully incorporated into the mixture. Watch out for those clumps, use your whisk to get rid of them or your hands (gloved) if you prefer.
  • Rose Otto Oil can actually be pricey and since we made an agreement earlier that don’t want to lose any limbs to make this bath bomb recipe, you can use Rose Absolute Oil. It is a cheaper alternative and its fragrance is said to be much closer to the rose compared to the Rose Otto.
  1. Next, whisk in the citric acid.  Again make sure that it is blended in properly into our mixture. 
  2. For the next step, we’ll be adding the isopropyl alcohol so you should be working in a well ventilated space.  You don’t want to inhale too much of those fumes, never get high on your own supply!  Open a window if you must. 

Stir constantly while spritzing your mixture with the isopropyl alcohol, this is to prevent a fizzing reaction from occurring.  You want to add just enough wherein the mixture clumps together when you squeeze it in your hand.  Try a few spritzes first and then check its texture.  If it’s still not holding together, you may add more alcohol.

  • Some people use water or witch hazel as the liquid but this is only advisable if you live in a desert climate. Doing this in a high humidity location can cause premature fizzing and we don’t want that.
  1. Don’t worry, I have not forgotten about the dried rose buds. Now this is where you can play around with your creativity.  Where do you want your dried rose buds? 

You can either place them on the bottom of one side of your mold so they come out as a fancy decoration for your DIY bath bomb.  Or you can even mix them all into your mixture so no one can doubt that you really made rose bud bath bombs.  Another fun way and my personal favorite, would be placing the dried rose buds in the middle of your bath bomb.  Once they drop the bomb in the tub and it starts to fizzle… BOOM! An explosion of beautiful rose buds.

  1. Once you’ve decided where to put the dried rose buds, fill your mold with the mixture. And I mean FILL IT!  Don’t let overfilling stress you out because that is exactly what we want to happen.  IT. IN.  Now press your molds together firmly as hard as you can.  Make sure they are packed hard enough to prevent cracking during the drying process.
  2. Let the mold sit in peace for about 10-15 minutes. Remove the bath bomb from the mold slowly and gently setting it on a flat surface.  You may also lay it on parchment paper to dry.
  3. Leave overnight untouched and undisturbed. No touching, no poking, don’t even try breathing around it.  Make sure it has hardened fully before you make an attempt at packing it.
  4. You can place your finished bath bombs inside an airtight container or a sealed jar.  For my high humidity dwelling sisters, wrap your finished products tightly in plastic.  This will protect them from that pesky excess moisture.  We want to keep these babies as dry as possible. 


Sweet child o’ mine, are you starting to feel the 80’s nostalgia?  Let’s put the guns down this time and talk about milk, goat’s milk to be exact.

It’s no secret that goat’s milk has a lot of benefits both for the inside and the outside.  In fact, people have been using goat’s milk soap because it is a great moisturizer so it is especially perfect for those with dry skin.  It can even be used to speed up the healing process of skin infections such as eczema, psoriasis and rosacea.  And it is even said to have anti-aging properties.  Now if you’re a true child of the 80’s, that previous sentence has already got you convinced to try this.

I know you are dying to get that goat milk soap recipe but let’s do a goat milk bath bomb recipe first.  I promise we will talk about how to make soap later, I have a couple melt and pour recipes I would be happy to share with you.  But there is nothing like bathing in milk to make a girl feel like Cleopatra.  And we are going to be adding dried rose petals too!  Wearing a tiara while bathing in it is optional but 10/10 would highly recommend.

Oh and before you grab your goat’s titties, we’re actually going to be using powdered goat’s milk.  So let us leave Nanny at peace for now and let her continue with her grazing.


  •  1 Cup Baking Soda
  • ½ Cup Citric Acid
  •  ¼ Cup Powdered Goat’s Milk
  • Rose fragrance oil
  •  Dried Rose Petals (All Natural Petal Confetti Potpourri)
  • Mica Powder (Optional if you prefer to add some color to your DIY bath bomb)        


  1. Mix baking soda, goat milk powder and mica powder in large bowl.
  2. Add a few drops of your rose oil making sure that it is combined properly with the dry mixture. Use a whisk or your hands to get rid of those clumps.
  3. Add the citric acid. Give it a good stir with your whisk.
  4. Sprinkle the dried rose petals on the mixture, channel your inner Salt Bae. You’ll want your dried rose petals mixed in well so to avoid big petal clumps, you may use your hands for the mixing.
  5. Now this is where you would want clumping to happen. Grab a handful of the mixture and if they do the clumping then they’re ready for the molding.  Spray alcohol or witch hazel as needed.
  6. Scoop the mixture into the first half of your mold. Do the same for the other half.  Go ahead and overfill them.  Make sure they are packed tightly into your molds.
  7. Leave your molds undisturbed for a few minutes. And then gently remove from the mold, placing them on a flat surface covered with wax paper.
  8. Allow to dry overnight or up to 24 hours. We want to make sure they have hardened properly so we can avoid crumbling when packing.



So I know we have been referencing 80’s bands and now that we are going to talk about oatmeal, I thought I would be at a loss and completely lose our theme.  What 80’s band could I possible relate to oatmeal??!

Oatley Crüe? Twisted Oatmeal? Bruce OATSteen?!  Then it hit me…  And I’m sure you’ve already thought of it.  Yes that’s right… HALL & OATES!

Okay now that we have gotten that out of our system, let us really talk about oatmeal.  It is not just healthy breakfast food you can eat, it also has a lot of benefits for your skin.  It is also skin food!  Oatmeal has anti-oxidants and makes your skin feel silky smooth and glowing.  It can also help reduce itching and inflammation of the skin. 

And since we have also been talking about how to make bath bombs, our next rose bath bomb recipe is going to have… dun dun dun dunnnn… OATMEAL!  (No I have not forgotten my promise to, we are still going to learn how to make soap later)

WARNING:  Bathing in this may or may not turn you into a maneater.

Oooh here she comes!



  1. Mix baking soda and quick oats in a big bowl.
  2. Add the rosehip oil and rose liquid soap dye. Use a few drops or until the desired color is achieved.  Make sure to get rid of any clumps that could appear, a whisk would be helpful here.
  3. Now add the citric acid and stir slowly.
  4. Sprinkle the rose petals on your mixture. (If you prefer a rosy surprise, place the petals after mixture has been scooped into the mold.)
  5. Scoop the mixture into your mold. Make sure it is packed tightly into it.  Go ahead and overfill then press together using enough pressure to ensure they are firmly attached. 
  6. Set the molds on your work place for a few minutes. Using multiple bath bomb molds would be advisable so you don’t have to wait a long time to mold your next bomb.  Saves a lot of time especially if you are making them as gifts or giveaways for a wedding.
  7. After 10-15 minutes, you may try to remove them from the mold. Do this GENTLY and SLOWLY.  Leave them on a flat surface or a baking tray lined with parchment paper and let dry overnight or up to 24 hours.

Are bath bombs cosmetics?


Rose clay also known as pink clay is a mild kaolin clay.  It is great for sensitive and dry skin types.  It does what other clays do, detoxifies and removes impurities from your skin clearing up your pores.  A lot of people add clay to their bath bomb recipe because of those reasons.  It also adds structure to your bath bomb helping hold their shape.  Rose clay can also be used to color your DIY bath bomb or used in milk and pour soap recipes giving a nice pink hue result.  Using too much could dry your bath bomb so go easy on the clay.  Here’s a simple recipe that uses rose clay with special guest, Lavender.

rose bath bombjpg
rose bath bombjpg



  1. Combine the baking soda and rose clay. You want to add the rose clay to the dry ingredients before the liquid ingredients.  This makes mixing easier.  Mix thoroughly.
  2. Now add your liquids, lavender oil and rose absolute oil. You can use your fingers to get rid of any clumps.
  3. Whisk the citric acid into the mixture.
  4. Spray Isopropyl alcohol but be careful not to overdo it. Start with about 3 spritzes and then check your mixture’s consistency.  You’ll want it to clump together when you grab a handful.  If they don’t, spray once and then check again.  Add more if needed.  (Use witch hazel if you live in humid areas.)
  5. Place a few dried lavenders and rose petals in one half of your mold. Scoop your mixture into it, pressing tightly.  Do the same to the other half of your mold. 
  6. Let it sit in your mold for about 15 minutes or so. Gently remove from the mold and place on a flat surface to dry.  Leave overnight or up to 24 hours.  Make sure no moisture gets to them.



Remember how we talked about putting dried rose petals hidden inside your bath bomb for a flowery explosion in the bath tub?  If you liked that, then why don’t you put a ring in it?

Hiding jewelry in bath bombs have become really popular these days.  Some companies even have promotions where you could get a chance to find a $5000 ring in one of their bath bombs.  You’d have to be really really really lucky to get to be “the lucky one”.  If you want to make your own bath bomb surprise, there’s no need to sell Nanny.  Remember, it’s the thought that counts!

Placing the ring inside isn’t rocket science.  Just make sure you place the jewelry inside a plastic capsule before you start mixing your ingredients.  The capsules are to protect the jewelry from the reactive ingredients used to make the bath bombs.  After all the ingredients have been mixed and you have achieved the desired texture, gently place the mixture in one half of your mold.  Make sure it is packed tightly.  Add the capsule and place a few more of the mixture.  Then pack the other half of your mold and press both sides together.  Leave inside for a few minutes, release from the mold gently and let the bath bomb dry overnight.

Who says kids can’t join in on the fun?  Instead of fancy rings and jewelry, place toys inside the bath bombs.  They will definitely look forward to bath time! 

Want more crafting ideas for kids? Hover here!



So you have learned how to make bath bombs or you already know how to make bath bombs but now what?  If you were planning to give them as a gift, it’s not like you can just slap that bath bomb straight from drying and onto your friend’s palm and be off.  “Me got bath bomb for you.  Me go now.”

I’m just kidding but really, let’s talk about packing your finished products.  Yes you throw bath bombs in the water but it can also be your bath bomb’s worst enemy.  Moisture can trigger premature fizzing so we’re going to go over protecting them and packaging ideas.

Make sure your bath bombs are dry before you start wrapping them up to avoid crumbling. 

You can use a resealable plastic bag, plastic wrap or a shrink wrap.  When used properly, these can protect your bath bombs from moisture effectively.  Squeeze out any air because you don’t want to leave any inside that could create moisture thus ruining your precious bath bomb.  When using a shrink wrap, you can use a heat sealer for a clean finish.  If you don’t have one, use a hair dryer holding that nozzle at least 6 inches away from your shrink wrap. 



Now that you have safely secured your DIY bath bomb in plastic, you’re ready to gift wrap them.  The possibilities are endless.

If you want to keep things simple, just put a custom made sticker on your finished product.  Or wrap it in colored tissue paper then a sticker.  If you have one end twisted, tie a ribbon around it.  You can even twist two ends to make a cute bath bomb candy wrapper.  Wrap in tulle if you want to be extra!

If you want to put them in individual boxes, place some fillers like packing peanuts to keep them secure.  You can also try stuffing decorative tissue paper in there or even newspapers.

When packing multiple bath bombs in one box, you want to make sure they aren’t all huddled up and bumping into each other.  Stuff some paper in between each bath bomb.  Shredded paper works too.  Just make sure that there is space between each bath bomb.

Want a free gift? Answer a survey for a free giveaway! It’s not gonna be inside a bath bomb tho…


  1. To avoid lumps in your bath bombs, sift your dry ingredients to remove the clumps.
  2. Cornstarch inhibits the fizz. For that reason, I opted not to add cornstarch to the given recipes above. 
  3. Eliminate Epsom salt or sea salts completely. They do nothing to help your bath bomb keep its shape but they can also cause premature fizzing because of moisture in the air.  If you really want to add salt, just make sure you don’t add too much.
  4. If your bath bombs are sticking to your silicone mold, try using plastic molds. Your bath bombs will release easily because they have better airflow.  If all you have are silicone molds, make sure you set them in a cool and dry area.  You can even use a fan or dehumidifier if you have one.
  5. Water can cause premature fizzing. Use 90% or higher isopropyl alcohol especially if you are in the high humidity areas.  It evaporates faster thus preventing a bath bomb disaster. 



Just like I promised earlier, a handmade soap recipe!  There are a lot of melt and pour soap recipes out there but what we’re about to do is a goat milk soap recipe. 

This goat milk soap recipe is perfect for people with dry skin.  With roses of course.  We can’t forget Rose, even if she let go of Jack’s hand after telling him she wouldn’t let go.  And there was space for two on that board!

I’m pretty sure most of you already know how to make soap but for those who don’t, we are going to learn how to make soap today!





  1. Chop goat milk soap base and place in heat-proof bowl. Melt in microwave, careful not to overheat.  Avoid stirring.
  2. While waiting for your soap to melt, you can place dried rose petals in your molds according to the chosen design.
  3. Once it has melted, add rose absolute oil. And if you want some color, now would be the time to add the liquid dye
  4. Pour melted soap into your molds. You can add more dried rose petals as you see fit.
  5. Give it a light tap to get rid of any air bubbles for a smoother looking finish.
  6. Leave overnight or until soap hardens. You can place them in the refrigerator to speed up the process.
  7. Once it’s ready, remove from the mold. Wrap and store or go take a shower and use it.

There you go.  Hope you liked that goat milk soap recipe.  It was simple and very easy to do.  You’re welcome!

How much do you know about your handmade soap?

You have reached the bottom of the page but it is not the end.  We’ll be sure to give another how to make bath bombs tutorial.  And I promise we’ll have more melt and pour soap recipes and even cold pressed soap recipes in the future!

Click here to read these tips and tricks so you will not make these soap making mistakes. You can also check our Facebook page for more tips and tricks. Bookmark us on your browser too!

Tried out these recipes?  Share your stories and pictures with us.  We would love to hear from you!


soap making kit

A Crash Course in Soap Making

Scrolling at Pinterest boards again? I agree that fruity soap looks really cute. But hey, just saving your favorite soap recipes and how to make soap tutorials won’t do you any good. Why don’t you try making your own soap already! You know you want to.

Remember your first batch of cookies in Home Economics? Soapmaking is like that, hazardous and your graduation depends on it… just kidding. It’s a combination of science, artistry, and a big dose of patience and love. Yeah, pretty much like cookies.

We’ll teach you how to make soap.

Okay, enough talk. Let’s get to it!


What soap is made of

First off, let’s define what a soap is. According to the Food and Drug Administration, soap is a mixture of lye and oils. Simple math for the commoner. But in reality, it takes more than two ingredients to make a beautiful and heaven-smelling bar of soap. Why don’t you get to know the specifics!

Water is the universal solvent

Any recipe cannot stand without this one ingredient. It’s like a wingman/woman you need at a party. It’s Snoop Dogg’s hypeman before every performance. Water dissolves the lye so it can interact with the oils.

The amount of water used in each recipe should always be carefully considered. It’s different with every recipe and sometimes the recipe needs a water discount or using less water than what is usually called for.

Discounting water will speed up the drying and curing process of cold process soap. For this, you need to use a lye calculator because no one wants a crumbly soap.

There are recipes that don’t require water. What?! That’s preposterous. How do to make soap without water? Well, some use milk or fruit juice instead, so don’t be freaked out.

Truth: Real soap has lye!

If you walk down the soap aisle of the supermarket you will see boxes labeled as cleansing bars, beauty bars, or moisturizing bars. Surprise! They do not contain lye, therefore, they are not soap bars. That’s why they just call themselves bars.

So if you want the real deal, you need lye.

I know you’ve heard bad things about lye. So you may be wondering, how to make soap without lye. The answer… you just can’t.

Lye is a metal-based chemical and is very harmful in its natural form. You can buy it at hardware stores and does a lot of other amazing stuff like cure food, extract bones from animal carcasses, and clean drains from grease and other yucky stuff.

There are two types of lye used in making soap: sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide. Sodium hydroxide is for solid soap and potassium hydroxide is used to make liquid soap. When you combine the two, you can make soap creams! (Or a volcano if you’re not careful).

The ratio of lye to oil on recipes are always different depending on the oils used and the desired outcome you want to achieve. Read more about lye and soap recipes here. 

If you want to make a recipe from scratch, always use a lye calculator available online or as an app for your phone.


It’s used in cooking!


One of the key ingredients of soap is oil. This is what you mix with lye to create a chemical reaction resulting to the product we know and use as soap.

Anciently, soap-makers use animal fats like lard and tallow (beef) that gives creamy lathers. The most basic oils you can use for your handmade soaps are coconut and olive oil.

There are many oils you can choose from! You can use grapeseed oil, sunflower oil, amaranth oil, or jojoba oil.

If you’d like extra lather, we recommend using coconut oil, cocoa butter, castor oil, and mango butter. Note: Using lots of castor oil makes your soap really soft.

Does your skin scream “moisturize me!?” Then lanolin, hazelnut, hemp seed, avocado, sweet almond, and camellia oils are the best ones to use!

Here are other ones you would want to experiment on:


Apricot Kernel Oil

Avocado Oil

Babassu Oil

Borage Oil

Calendula Oil

Canola Oil


Emu Oil

Shea Butter

Tamanu Oil

Evening Primrose Oil

Flax (Linseed) Oil

Kokum Butter

Kukui Nut Oil

Macadamia Nut Oil

Meadowfoam Oil

Monoi de Tahiti

Mowrah Butter

Neem Oil

Walnut Oil


Palm Kernel Oil

Palm Oil

Plum Kernel Oil

Pomegranate Oil

Pumpkin Seed Oil

Rice Bran Oil

Rosehip Seed Oil

Safflower Oil

Sesame Oil

Wheat Germ Oil

Essential oils: Le parfum naturel

The phrase in itself says it all. Every. Soap. Needs. Some. Essential oils give that natural fragrance to every soap.

In my opinion (and you can quote me on this), the oils make a bar of soap beneficial while the essential oils make the soap unique in a very special kind of way.

To be specific, a recipe must only be made of 3% essential oils. Not a .01 more. Why? Because too much will cause skin irritation or photosensitivity.

But before you run to the soap making supplies store near you, remember that these oils cost a few dineros, so you better not buy a whole shelf.

Pick some scents that you are familiar with or have fallen in love with through the years and try to experiment with those first. Explore and find your own Chanel No. 5.

Some noteworthy oils you need to have in your soap-making labs are lavender, lemongrass, tea tree, vanilla oleoresin (my personal favorite), lemon, and eucalyptus (or peppermint or anything minty and fresh does it).

You can also blend oils to recreate the nostalgia of that summer afternoon stroll at Greece, or the comforting memory of your granny’s cinnamon rolls.

Be inspired and get creative on this part. It’s where your personality will really show!

Thirsty for more handmade fragrance oils making? Read it on! 

Express yourself through colors

Nothing screams boring than just plain white rectangular bars of soap. Color is not just for cool marketing stunts, it’s also a good way of labeling which soap is which if you’re making one whole batch after another.

There are a lot of options for soap colorants. But for making handmade soap, you should opt for all-natural ones like liquid dyes and mica.

Mica is a mineral found on rocks and has many uses. Mica powder is used widely for cosmetics for its glittering effect when applied thinly on the eyelids. Highlighters and bronzers also contain mica giving your makeup look a bit of that deserved shimmer.

In soap-making, powdered mica needs to be dissolved and the more diluted it is in water, the weaker the color would be, just like your watercolor palette in kindergarten. It’s readily available at your local soap making supplies store.

You can get creative and do all stuff with the color. Mix it, ombre, marble. You can finally let out the inner Van Gogh or Da Vinci in you. The possibilities are endless!

Add-ons and extra special something

Other add-on ingredients are dried herbs like green tea leaves, chamomile petals, lemon slices, and lavender buds. You can also add oatmeal, ground coffee beans, coconut meat shreds, etc. to add that desired texture and authenticity, especially for exfoliating soap bars.

A quick word of warning

In soapmaking, we use lye, pure 100% sodium hydroxide crystals. This chemical is very hazardous to tabletops, children, pets and full-grown adults like you.

Do not eat or drink lye. Don’t even dare touch it with your bare hands. Do not inhale the fumes coming from it. Don’t let it splatter on your eyes.

Please do yourself a favor and idiot-proof your soapmaking labs, aka your kitchens or garage to eliminate the risk of potential danger.

Wear long sleeve clothing, rubber gloves, and goggles. And most importantly, water should be added to lye and not the other way around.

For more information on lye, read here.

Are you scared of lye now?

Good. But just enough to make you realize that you need to be careful. You may be wondering how you can make soap without lye. The answer is no. Why, because the FDA says so.

Lye is like your pet husky. It is a wolf breed and needs a lot of training before you can let it play with your kids. With the right supervision, your husky might be on the path to Youtube stardom like all the doggos before him.

The same with lye and soapmaking. If you master the craft, you will reap the rewards.

You see, you don’t need to be scared and decide to walk away from lye forever. Lye is your friend. It is good but is often misunderstood. Lye needs love too.

Remember to always use a lye calculator to check if a recipe is safe to work with.

If you don’t want to handle lye per se, you can try melt and pour soap-making kits.

Soap making supplies you need

Now you have the ingredients, let’s talk about the equipment. As I have said over and over again, we are dealing with chemicals. You don’t need to blow your card on super expensive stuff. You may even have some of these sitting inside your cupboard.

Stick blender – mixing lye water with the oils is really time-consuming and requires all your arm muscles. So to avoid the risk of carpal tunnel syndrome use one of these babies!

Scale – yes, the same inexpensive one you use for baking. All the ingredients are presumably in their solid state when measured so scales are really vital for any recipe.

Thermometer – this is used to take the temperature of the lye and oils. Lye needs to cool down before it is mixed with the oils and oils needs to heat up to the right temperature especially if you are using two or more oils in your recipe.

Invest on an infrared laser thermometer so you don’t have to touch a bead of lye. Keeping track of the temp in the right temperature will save the soap you’re making, your life, and the kitchen countertop.

Containers for measuring and mixing lye – for this, do not use aluminum ones because it reacts with the lye. It’s best to use heavy-duty plastic cups for measuring and stainless steel for mixing and you’ll be fine.

Note: Tempered glass has the potential to crack because lye can turn very hot (200F) when mixed with water. So just don’t.

Heavy duty spoons and spatulas – best to use rubber or heavy-duty silicone ones. Wooden spatulas are okay too but wood is corrosive when mixed with lye. Not too long before you will find some splinters on your soap bars. Again… no aluminum.

Gloves and goggles – please please invest in heavy-duty plastic or silicone gloves and some chemical resistant lab goggles. Safety first!

Soap molds – wooden molds are best when drying and curing soap as it absorbs water. But you can also use silicone molds so you can easily take them out without any damage whatsoever.

Heck, you can use cardboard boxes too! As long as it’s not aluminum, you can bet you can use it!.

Crockpot – this one is used for hot processed soap. It doesn’t need to be brand new.

You can use an old one or buy from a thrift shop. As long as it works, it should be good enough.

These are just the basic things you need to get started. If you enjoy soap-making so much or want to venture into the soapmaking business, you may want to upgrade to more durable equipment over time.

It is so important to label your containers and only reserve them for when you are making soap. Lye poisoning causes death. Again, separate containers and measuring cups and spoons from the ones you use for food.

Okay, now you can rush to your soap making supplies shop!

Basic procedures to make soap

You need to be familiar with all these methods:

Kid-friendly melt and pour

Another term for melt and pour is soap casting. It’s basically like making chocolates for V-day.

You can usually find big bars of clear soap to begin with. You can melt it under a stove, and then you can add stuff as you please. Add some fragrance oils, colors, flower buds, or a cute toy. Then, put it on a mold and voila, a customized soap!

Melt and pour is really easy and the safest method by far. You can even make it with kids. This method is also perfect for beginners.

Note: Clear bar soap used in soap casting is called glycerin soap which has a higher pH level. It cleans very well… sometimes too well if you know what I mean. So, be careful.

There are a lot of soap-making kits that you can purchase if you’re not sure where to start or if you’re out of ideas.

Cold process for the novice

This is the most popular way of making soap from scratch. No premade stuff. No shortcuts.

It involves mixing lye with water and oils to create a chemical process called saponification. Saponification is the process by which soap is created. It is also the longest method because it has the longest curing time which can take up to six weeks.

The great thing about cold-process soap is that the resulting soap bar will not dissolve easily in the shower and it won’t be dry and crumbly if you did everything right.

And, good news to you, my fellow handmade soap maker, because natural colorants like pure mica won’t bleed, fade, or morph on cold process soap!  You can always buy soap-making kits to make sure you’re ending up with quality ingredients.

But of course, like ballet and cooking, making soap is a skill that needs both mastery and artistry. The more you practice, the better you will be.

An alternative to the cold process

Hot process soapmaking is basically the cold process method except everything goes inside a pot, sitting under a stove, or a crock pot.

You need to be extra careful using this method as it uses heat. This is where the infrared thermometer comes in handy. A lot of skill and mastery is needed before you ace your batch of soap.

Awesome soap projects are clear glycerin soap used in melt and pour. Compared to cold process soap, using this method gives your soap bars fewer periods of curing time of 1 week to 3 weeks.

Advise on the best soapmaking method

Well, all the methods presented here have their own pros and cons. If you are just thinking of an activity for your PTA party weekend, you may opt for melt and pour.

But for the beginners out there who is up for a bit of challenge, I suggest getting your hands on cold process soapmaking. There are tons and tons of ideas and advice you can get online.  And there are hundreds of recipes you can try.

There are also a lot of soap-making kits you can purchase online!

May I suggest giving a go with my original recipes. Scroll down below to know more!

Cold process soap from scratch

Here are 3 specially formulated handmade soap recipes you will surely fall in love with. I incorporated all of the basic ingredients I mentioned earlier just to give you lovelies a full-blown soap-making experience one recipe after the other.

This first one is very simple and easy to make.

Naturally Fairest of them All Soap

A cup of distilled water

122 grams of  lye

57 grams of Jojoba Oil

435 grams of Coconut Oil

227 grams Olive Oil

57 grams Lanolin

38 grams of Rosehip Seed Oil

57 grams of Rice Bran Oil

3 tablespoons of Crisp Apple Rose Fragrance Oil

2 tsp mica powder in Whisper

A couple of dried wild rose buds


First, pour lye into your water and mix well until the lye is dissolved. Then, set aside and let it cool.

Next, heat your oils in a stainless steel pot under medium heat. Set aside and let it cool.

When the lye water and oils have the same temperature (90 to 115F), take the lye water and slowly pour it in the oils.

Take your stick blender and make the mixtures know each other. This part is really crucial. You don’t want to mix it too much. It should have the viscosity of a pancake batter. We call this a light trace.

After your mixture has reached a light trace, you can now add the mica powder. It’s important to mix them really thoroughly so you can have an evenly-colored bar when you take it out of your mold.

Then, add the crisp apple and rose fragrance oil.

When the fragrance oil is fully incorporated, pour it into your choice of mold.

Take a spoon and create some kind of texture at the top and sprinkle some wild rosebuds.

And… you’re done! Wait 24 hours before unmolding the soap. Want more roses? Click here!

Ready for the next one?

Lavender is always a go-to on cold process soap-making! You just cannot go wrong with this one. I tried to use some unfamiliar oils in the mix, but I kept the olive oil as the base. I will teach you a swirl coloring technique, as promised!

This pretty soap bar will give you maximum moisture this summer.



Purple Mauve Mist Soap

A cup of cool distilled water

110 grams Lye

57 grams of Avocado Oil

227 grams of Babassu Oil

340 grams of Olive Oil

57 grams of Shea Butter

113 grams of Sunflower Seed Oil

3 ½ tablespoons of Lavender Green Tea Fragrance Oil

2 teaspoons mica powder in Lavender

2 teaspoons mica powder in Edens Garden

A handful of Lavender buds


In a container, dissolve lye into the water (again, pour lye into the water and not the other way around). Set aside on a safe place and let it cool until it reaches 90 to 115F.

While the lye water is cooling down, combine and heat your oils on a stainless steel pot (reserved for soap making) and let it cool.

Ideally, the oils and lye water solution should reach the same temperature before you mix them up together. But since we can’t control everything in nature, it’s okay if they are little degrees off from each other.

Slowly drizzle the lye water into the oils. Then, wangle-jangle them up using a stick blender. Do not overmix it because we are doing swirls on this one! Ye should achieve a light trace, kinda like a pancake batter.

Now pour half of the mix in a separate container. Then, add lavender mica and stir with the blender. On the other container, add the Edens garden mica and mix.

You can now add the lavender green tea fragrance oil to both mixes.

Now, the fun part! Pour the lavender-colored mix all the way to the bottom of the white mix. Then stir lightly with a chopstick.

Finally, pour the mix into your mold of choice. And for the finishing touch, sprinkle some lavender buds on top and dust it with some leftover white mica powder.

Remember to wait for 24 hours before cutting and cure it before using (or gifting, selling, etc).

This last recipe is a fun and natural cold process soap that is inspired by the trendy charcoal peel off masks and one of Arcy’s famous shakes, but with a twist!

Dark Jamocha Shake Soap

A cup of distilled water

176 grams of lye

453 grams of Canola Oil

226 grams Coconut Oil

453 grams Olive Oil

113 grams Coffee Oil

3 ½ tablespoons of Chocolate and Amber Fragrance

1 tsp activated charcoal

1 tsp mica in Forbidden Black

2 tsp  mica in Purity 

2 tsp mica in Tangerine


Step one: Take all your mica powder and put them in separate containers except for the purity white mica. Now, instead of using water to dissolve the other two powders, we are using olive oil. Mix 6 tsp olive oil to each color.

Finally, add the activated charcoal to the forbidden black mica and set aside.

It’s basically the same process from here. Pour lye into the water. Then, heat the oils and combine them when they are about the same temperature. Next, mix with a stick blender but not too much!

Remember that we’re making swirls in this recipe so we are looking for a light trace.

Once you’ve achieved that light trace, you can now add the purity white mica we prepared earlier. Mix, mix, mix and add the chocolate and amber fragrance oil and mix yet again.

It’s time to put the mix in a rectangular mold. If you’re using wood, line it with parchment paper first. Once the mix is sitting in the mold, quickly take your tangerine mica oil and drizzle it lightly on top using a spoon or a plastic pipette. Now, drizzle the charcoal mica oil the same way.

Take a chopstick and stir a light swirl hitting all the drizzles. This technique is called mica oil painting. It will give a shining, shimmering, splendid soap bar! The colors we add made it look like a shake too.

All you have to do now is wait for 24 hours to cut your soap and let it cure.

We forgot the special ingredient!

Oops! Sorry about that.

The special ingredient in making soap would be lots and lots and lots of patience. It’s okay if you don’t get your first batch right. Just keep trying.

Now you know how to make soap! Congratulations!

If the recipes don’t work for you, feel free to modify them. We don’t mind. I swear! Just don’t forget the safety precautions in using lye. If you have your own recipes and soap business tips that you want to share, let us know! 

And.. feel free to ask me anything about how to make soap in the comments below!

Happy Soaping!



rose clay 1 perfect soap

How to Create the Perfect Batch of Soap Everytime!

Are you being sucked in by the soapmaking craze and you can’t get out anymore? I know you’re thirsty for more than just a HowToBasic that tells you how to make soap. So here’s a something juicier you can bite your teeth into.

Soap making looks so easy in theory, especially when we see it on Pinterest and Youtube tutorial videos. I know I had a hard time making my first batch. It’s perfect for the “reality vs. expectation” meme. I was telling myself “well, this doesn’t look anything like the photo.”

But we’re going to change that.

Here’s some in-depth knowledge on how to make soap like a pro!

Know your oil classification

Oils you use can greatly affect the outcome of your soap. Oils are responsible for the texture,  lathering, and conditioning properties of your soap. But before we get in-depth with this important stuff, we need to go back to oil basics.

There is three main classification of oils used in soapmaking: soft, hard, and brittle. Don’t worry. This is an easy one. No more science mumbo-jumbo.

It is basically the condition of the oil at room temperature. Soft oils are liquid at room temperature. Some examples of soft oils are castor oil, avocado oil, and olive oil.

Brittle and hard oils and butter are both solid in room temperature. The difference is that brittle oils are not very scoop-friendly and needs a bit of effort to chip.

Examples of hard oils and butter are coconut oil, shea butter, and lard. Cocoa butter, palm kernel oil, and babassu oil are brittle oils and butter.

The perfect soap needs to have a balance of both hard and soft oils. Ideally, a good soap recipe needs to have 40% soft oils and 60% hard oils. Notice how quality soap recipes online require more than 3 oils? This is the very reason why.

Soap-making kits don’t tell you that.

Later, I will give you some soap recipes applying these principles!

Look out for allergens!

Whether or not you’re making soap for personal use, gifting, or selling them, it is important to consider oils that you may be allergic to. Peanuts, tree nuts, wheat, and soy are all on the shortlist of common food allergens. A lot of people are surprisingly allergic to coconut and palm oils too.

The best way to avoid these allergens is to substitute them with another oil that is equally nourishing, etc.

If you are allergic to palm oil, you can try using tallow or lard instead. You can also use cocoa or shea butter or any other hard oil.

Is coconut oil not doing it for you? Replace it with avocado oil or palm kernel flakes!

Scroll down below to know how to make soap that is allergen-free.

What makes soap lather?

It’s time to break into some lather science. Yes, if you thought you could get away with chemistry, you’re totally wrong! Let’s have a review.

How to make soap? As you may all know, the formula is lye + oils = soap.

Now soap has chemicals called foaming agents. These bad boys break the surface tension. Surface tension is the property of water molecules being intact and really close together.

When you use soap, you break this barrier. Foaming agents also interacts with the air molecules and the grease and oils on your dirty skin. Combine all of that.  And that’s how bubbles are born.

Thirsty for more soap science? We’ve got you covered, read everything about PH and soap here!

I have zero bubbles

So, your worst case scenario would be this. You have minimal to zero lathers. It will go on like this:

You may have asked yourself “what did I do wrong?” Or you may have tried looking the soap straight in the packaging saying something like “can we just work it out, like rebatch or salting?”

Girl, stop asking yourself who’s at fault because clearly, it’s an “it’s me, not you” scenario. Ask yourself these questions instead:

  • Was I patient enough to wait 4-6 weeks for my cold process soap to cure?
  • Did I use too much sodium lactate?
  • Did I use a good lathering soap block for my melt and pour?
  • Was I really keeping an eye on my hot process soap while it boils?

These are just some general reasons why your soap wouldn’t give you lather. After your quick self-evaluation, forsake your bad ways, fellow soapmaker. Wipe those containers clean. Get your lye calculator running and start all over again.

Achieving the perfect lather

Somewhere down the road of life, you and I both have had the chance of making a batch of soap that opened up our senses.

It had you at “moisturizing.” You fell in love with it’s crisp, distinct, and addicting scent. And you awed on its recipe saying the sweet promise of the word “hypoallergenic”. You love the soap bar you produced because it is nice to your skin.

However, despite it’s good and angelic qualities, you cannot overlook it’s one flaw. Maybe it’s the sentimental value that keeps you holding on to it. But no matter how hard you try you can never be satisfied with its per-foam-ance.

The secret to the perfect lather is simple:  a careful mix of the right oils and additives.

The first tip, use coconut oil, palm kernel oil, or babassu oil for that perfect lather.

If you want a medium creamy lather, do what our forefathers did and use lard and beef tallow to make your soap.

Finally, use lather-increasing additives. You can try a variety of milk products such as powdered or fresh goat’s milk, canned or powdered coconut milk, canned evaporated milk, and yogurt.

Want a hazy lather? Splash some of that Bud Light or his Ballast Point, why don’t cha? Just replace it later. He won’t even notice you drank another bottle.

And my personal favorites, honey, and sugar. I’ll discuss using honey on a recipe later on.

Pop! Goes the bubble

Now that you know how to make soap lather like there’s no tomorrow, how do keep it that way?

Refrain from using too much olive oil. It destabilizes the lather you want to create!  Instead, use butter! Try cocoa, shea, and mango butter! They help sustain the foams too.

Why don’t you mix a shot of castor oil to intensify your bubble production! Warning: Do not use more than 10% of castor oil. It will turn your soap really soft.

Hard… like your life!


There’s nothing more annoying than a brittle batch of soap right out of the mold. I know… I hate rebatching too! But what are you supposed to do?

That’s why I’m here to tell you how.

First, increase your olive oil. Okay, I know, I know. I’m contradicting myself a bit here. But please go back a little after the title of this blog post. All we need is a balance. And I said, “refrain from using too much”. Before I get super dopey and defensive, here’s why…

Olive oil has a high saponification value (SAP value). This means it has enough fatty acids to hold on to lye, thus making the soap more solid. Don’t know what lye is? Read about lye and soap and the recipes here. 

Second is using less water or a water reduction. So, how does this work? Just decrease the water by 10% from what the recipe calls for.

Third, add beeswax. You know how long-lasting your Burt’s Bees lip balm is. Zero doubts on that! We advise you use only 1-2% of beeswax in your recipe. Too much beeswax will compromise your lather game.

But if you didn’t read this part of the article and put too much too late, you can always add more castor oil.

You can also put salt. The ratio should be a ½ teaspoon of salt per 1 pound of oil. Add to the lye solution when it reaches 130F.

Oh, and did I mention sodium lactate? It’s a product from fermented sugars found in corn and beets. It also helps palm oil-free recipes to counterbalance the effect of soft oils on drying and curing soap. It gives a little “oomph!” to your lathers too!

The sodium lactate ratio should be the same as the salt ratios.

A splash of color

There are many ways to color your soap. A lot of soapmakers use cosmetic-grade mica. Mica is a mineral found in rocks and works really well with melt and pour soaps. It comes in powder form that has a bit of shine to it.

The only problem with using mica is that it reacts with the high pH in soap mixture and often result to either morphing of colors or fading altogether during curing. Another way to use mica is to mix it in oil to paint a freshly poured soap mix in a mold.

Wanna try it now? Here are recipes you may wanna get your hands into!

You also have the option to opt for food grade colorants like this one.

Now, there are soap recipes that only require the use of crayons as colorants. Although this is a possible pursuit, it is not very advisable to use crayons on a soap. It may cause irritation to the skin because it is not made for cosmetic use. 

But if you like living on the edge and still wanna give it a go, shred it and dissolve it in the lye water before mixing it with the oils. (But I really don’t recommend it!)

Use nature’s true colors


Knowing the natural diva that you are, you want every single thing in that handmade soap organic. Lucky for you, there are lots of natural colorants mother nature has to offer.

For that natural black color, use activated charcoal and get some antioxidants as a bonus! If you want brown, you can play with cocoa powder, coffee, and beetroot powder.

Maybe you want some rustic pink? Use rose clay or tree lichen.

Why don’t you try dried and ground alfalfa for that pretty green color? Or use alkanet or red sandalwood powder for that royal purple.

Want that sunny yellow on your soap recipe? Use calendula powder, saffron powder, turmeric, or ginger! Now you can make the most of those extra flowers on your soap-making kits

What about hues of blue? Try indigo powder for an intense blue and woad powder for a lighter blue.

But if you want a bolder red, sprinkle some madder root powder or Moroccan red clay. For a fresh orange tint, you can add annatto infused oil and paprika powder.

Remember, these colorants may react to certain ingredients and have a color change.

You may need to experiment with little batches of soap first to really know since different oils and fragrances react with the color consistency of your soap.

Get it in shape!


Another factor we need to consider when making the best batch of soap is the molding. This is one thing not included on soap-making kits.

You may have the best lathering and conditioning soap recipe but if it breaks when you unmold it, it’s back to step one for you.

Your mold choice will decide the shape, size, and if you ever want to venture into the soapmaking business.

Here are your best options:


This is the most popular mold at the soap making supplies stores nowadays. It’s flexible and easy to wash and store. You don’t need to line it before pouring your soap.

But the cooling and drying process is a bit longer because silicone keeps the air out of your soap. It also has the tendency to overheat, so be careful!


I consider myself a non-conformist. So, even though I use silicone, I still go back to the classic wood. It’s sturdy and out of it results in a professional-looking handmade soap masterpiece. It has enough air to go around to cut on the curing and drying time.

But wood is not very durable and you need to line it with freezer or wax paper before using. The thing I really like about wooden molds it that I can have it customized at soap making supplies shops.


It’s less expensive and you have so many shapes and sizes to choose from! This works best with melt and pour soaps. But plastic molds are not for bulk bars because it can melt and overheat easily.

Stainless steel

This is readily available too, like the plastic. It is heat resistant and can never be flimsy. But you need to always line it with either wax or freezer paper. It lasts a little longer than wood too.


For that unique, rustic look, you can use cereal boxes or yogurt cartons as molds for your handmade soaps. You can easily customize the size and length of the mold. It’s eco-friendly and cuts on the production cost of your lovely soap bars.

The downside of this type of mold it that it’s not sturdy. There is a chance that your mold is not strong enough and you might spill some soap on the counter while it’s cooling! You also need to line it properly or you’ll end up with soap looking like a paper mache.

Soap theories in motion


Now that you know more about soapmaking, it’s time for application. The following recipes are made with 60% hard oils and 40% soft oils. I also formulated these recipes with natural colorants in mind.

Something Hard and Sweet Soap

This next recipe is inspired by an Australian beekeeper friend of mine that taught me everything I know about honeybees. In this soap recipe, we will use honey and beeswax.

There are three varieties of beeswax you can find at soap making supplies stores. White beeswax, yellow beeswax, and absolute beeswax.

Yellow beeswax is the plain, raw one. White beeswax is yellow beeswax but bleached, while beeswax absolute is treated with alcohol.

Honey, on the other hand, has lots of variety, depending on the flowers the bees get their pollen from. For this recipe, any raw honey would do. Honey is also a natural colorant in itself and will give our soap a light brown color!


81.96 grams Lye

186 ml of distilled water

133 grams of palm oil

76 grams of shea butter

133 grams of coconut oil

76 grams of babassu oil

65 grams of sunflower seed oil

32 grams of rice bran oil

24 grams of beeswax

10 grams of castor oil

1 teaspoon raw honey


Pour lye into water and stir until fully dissolved. Set it aside and let it cool.

Next step, melt shea butter first then add the other oils, including the beeswax. Our beeswax makes our soap last longer in the shower. It also has anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties.

Fun fact: Beeswax is made from bee sweat.

For the beeswax to stay liquid, the oils need to be at least 160F. This is very hot so be very careful.

After making sure you have the right temperature, pour the lye to the oils and wangle-jangle with your stick blender until it has a medium trace.

You can now add pure honey in the mix. There’s nothing really to it when using honey. All you need to know is that you should use 1 teaspoon honey for every pound of oils. Honey, together with castor oil, will give this handmade soap maximum lather!

Now, it’s time for molding! Pour the soap mixture into the mold of your choice and for those hexagons at the top, take a sheet of bubble wrap (unpopped and fully intact) and imprint it on top of the mold.

Unmold after 24 hours, cut, and let it cure for 4-6 weeks.

Pro tip: the longer it cures, the more bubbles it produces!

Creamy Blanket of Comfort Soap

Did you know that you can color your soap naturally with purees? You can puree flowers like goldenrod or you can use carrots, spinach… even cranberries! In this recipe, we are going to use tomato puree that will give the soap a deliciously bright and earthy orange.


164 grams Lye

261 grams of lard

1 cup tomato puree

261 grams of coconut oil

65 grams of jojoba oil

261 grams of unrefined shea butter

195 grams of olive oil

65 grams of deodorized cocoa butter

1 ½ teaspoon paprika powder

1 teaspoon mica powder in Purity

65 grams of grapeseed oil

9 teaspoons basil essential oil or fragrance oil (learn how you can make your own)

2 pinches of dried parsley


Tomato puree is our natural colorant in this soap recipe. To keep the color, the first step is to pour the tomato puree into an ice cube mold and let it freeze overnight.

This step will prevent the tomatoes to turn brown when it’s exposed to too much heat from the lye and oils.

You now have enough time to prepare your mica oil. Take your purity mica and mix it with 2 teaspoons of olive oil (pomace).

Then, put lye to the frozen tomato cubes and mix as usual. While the lye is cooling down, heat the butter first, then add the remaining oils.

Next, pour the lye mix into the oils and wangle-jangle them up until evenly incorporated. Keep mixing until it has a light to medium trace.

You can now whisk the paprika in the mix for an even more intense tomato color. Then, add the basil essential oil. Mix well with the stick blender.

Finally, pour the soap batter into your mold of choice. Now using a plastic pipette, drizzle the mica oil, making it look like cream on tomato soup.

Sprinkle dried parsley on top. Dry and let it cure

Berrry Rozes Soap

Fun fact: Did you know that strawberry and roses are cousins? Yes, they are both members of the Rosaceae family which also includes apples, pears, and almonds. So, to celebrate their family tree, I made this recipe with a touch of French rose clay and rose petals.


87 grams of lye

32 grams of Canola Oil

177 ml of distilled water

97 grams of Apricot Kernel Oil

32 grams of Cocoa Butter

293 grams of Coconut Oil

97 grams of Olive Oil

2 teaspoons French rose clay

2 ½ tablespoons Sweet Strawberry Fragrance oil

A handful of dried rose petals


Just follow the standard procedure for mixing lye and water. Then heat your oils and combine promptly with the lye water.

Now, you can color the soap mixture in 2 ways. After achieving a light trace, you can add the french rose clay directly and mix the soap batter with a whisk

Or, you can set aside some melted oils and mix it with the clay and then add it on the batter. This will give you the best chance of having a uniformly-colored batch of soap.

After pouring it on a mold, sprinkle your desired amount of rose petals on top! Dry and cure before use.  

Want more rose petal action? Click here!

Look on the bright side!

Well, I’ve shared everything I know to help make your soap reach rockstar status. If you know better that you want to share to the world, bring it on

If you are venturing into the soapmaking business, you can easily turn up the volume and produce soap-making kits now. Isn’t it exciting?

So, what are you waiting for? Run to your nearest soap making supplies store now and start perfecting your craft! 


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